Interior columns are a sophisticated ornamental finish that brings the air of ancient architecture to any home. Even when just for decorative purposes, they create the illusion of sturdiness and support. They usually come in three parts: The column shaft, capital, and base that fit around the shaft to attach it to the ceiling and floor.
When making the choice to install columns, you will be faced with a few considerations such as:
Columns come in varying materials such as wood or synthetic material such as fiberglass or polyurethane. Our extensive range of polyurethane columns is a divine choice that is easy to install, affordable, and durable.
Before you have selected your ideal piece, consider where it will be installed. You want it to stand out in a way that also blends in with everything else. Moreover, it is best placed where it seemingly offers support as this will improve it’s overall visual.
Type of column
Depending on what you’re going for, you can opt for either flat, round, or half-columns.
As the name suggests, flat columns assume a plane shape.
Round columns are completely cylindrical.
Half-columns are a longitudinal bisection of a round column.
Whatever type of column you choose, the installation process will largely be the same. Because of the simple nature of flat columns and that angles will not need to be mitered, fixing one up against a surface will be pretty straightforward. Round and Half columns will need a bit more precision but even these should be simple enough.
What you will need:
❖ The choice column
❖ Nails/ screws
❖ A measure and pencil
❖ A nail/ screw drill
Measure the selected area
The length of the column to put up will be dependent upon the height of the wall. The area should also be roomy enough to accommodate the width and depth of the capital and the plinth.
Cut the column
When you have determined the height of the wall, subtract about ¼ inch from this and then mark a cut line near the base of the column. Always trim the column from the bottom as often, the shaft does not come in a consistent diameter and will have a straight section along the bottom third but then taper towards the top. Recheck the measurement to be sure you got it right and then cut the piece.
Mark the base and vertical centerline
Mark the centerline of the space where the base of the column will rest. If it will be on a platform, make sure that it is sturdy enough to support the column’s weight. Because a column will give the illusion of offering support, this base surface ought to have a substantial appearance.
Extrapolate the centerline you marked out for the base onto the vertical surface of the wall and extend it to the ceiling, and then mark about two inches towards the center of the room. This line will help you fit the column so that it is perfectly aligned with the top ad bottom capitals.
Make and put up a backer board
Measure the inside diameter at the top of the column. Use a spare piece of wood that’s about ¾ inches thick to make a backer board that will fit into the top third of the column height. Mark the centerline at the top of this board and then put it up on the wall using nails or screws.
If the column tapers instead, ignore the backer board and simply aim to get a good fit at the top.
Drill countersunk screw shank clearance holes through the edges of the column for the screws you will drive into the backer board. The capital should cover the top-most screws. Space the holes no more than 12 inches apart up to the bottom of the backer board.
Mark a centerline at the top and bottom of the column’s face. Drill angled countersunk screw shank clearance holes at the centerline near the very top and bottom of the column.
Fit the column
At this point, consider asking for help putting up the column, especially if it is long. You will need to keep it steady and in position- an extra pair of hands will come in handy for that. Elevate the column, placing tapered shins under the ends on each side until the top touches the ceiling. Make sure that the centerline on the column face matches the centerline on the supporting base.
Embed the screws (or nails)
Plunge a screw through the hole you had made at the bottom to hold the column in place, taking care to stop the screw as soon as the head touches the column so that you do not misalign the column. Do the same at the top and along both edges into the backer board.
Attach the base and the top
Drill countersunk screw shank clearance holes through the base, bring it to rest at the bottom of the shaft, and then plunge the screws in to fix it firmly to the mounting surface. Remember to stop pushing in the screw once it has come into contact with the column.
Repeat the process for the top, making sure that it is securely fastened to the ceiling.
Apply the finishing touches
Apply caulk along all the edges. Once this is done, paint over the column to your desired shade. The most ideal suggestion is pure white. However, feel free to experiment with your creativity with any faux finishes such as marble or granite.